The Wiener and Still Champion Lives Up to Its Name

By Victoria Scott

Gus Paschalis, owner of The Wiener and Still Champion, demonstrates the hand cutter that produces his famous French fries. Photo by Victoria Scott

Many local diners will have their first look inside an unpretentious Evanston eatery when it appears on national television.

The Wiener and Still Champion, 802 Dempster St., will be featured this fall or winter on "Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives," one of the most popular shows on television's Food Network.

The show's host, Guy Fieri, came to town a couple weeks ago with a production crew of five or six to tape the nearly 15 hours of material they will pare to about six minutes of airtime, says Wiener owner Gus Paschalis.

While neighbors still tend to overlook the hot dog stand with the braggadocian name and unimposing façade, Mr. Paschalis says food mavens from elsewhere are lining up in the wake of rave reviews on TV and the Internet.

The eatery, says the owner, has appeared on Channel 7 News, as well as WGN radio and the online LTHForum. Channel 5 recognized it as having "one of the top three burgers in the burbs," he says. Three times lately he has served customers doing hot dog tours.

Such acclaim is new to The Wiener, says Mr. Paschalis, who has owned the restaurant for three years. Although he actually stepped in on July 5, 2005, he chose National Hot Dog Day, July 19, to celebrate his third - and the restaurant's 33rd - anniversary.

When he took over, he says, "[The restaurant owners] weren't serving quality products." He is well aware, he says, that "there's a lot of bad food out there." But bolstered by a university degree and more than 10 years of experience in the food industry, he set out to turn a sow's ear into ... well, a Vienna all-beef winner - the kind made with natural casings that "snap when you bite in," he says.

First he shaped up the French fries, replacing the tired, frozen variety with those made from fresh potatoes he selects each morning at the Chicago or Des Plaines market.

"I'm fussy," says Mr. Paschalis. "They have to be Idaho [potatoes]." He avoids certain growers. Their spuds, he says, "wouldn't crisp up - they were soggy," perhaps because "their starch content was off."

Three burlap sacks of Idahos slump against the wall by the counter, destined for the mechanical cutter that hangs on the wall of the back room. Mr. Paschalis demonstrates, placing a potato on end in the cutter. When he pulls down the handle, squeezing the potato through the sharp grid on which it rests, out come square pieces in their nutritious skin.

Fried twice in vegetable oil, his French fries scored fourth in a CitySearch poll, he says. But he may be even prouder of his corn dogs. His place, he says, is "one of only two in Chicagoland" where corn dogs are freshly hand-dipped.

And they come with the array of dipping sauces that prompts their nickname, Dippin' Dogs. Dressed for just 50 cents in the customer's choice of wasabi, curry ketchup, Texas Ranch, Argentine aioli and herb or more, da lowly Chicago dawgs assume a worldly air.

The notion of serving sauces came from a French-fry place in New York, he says. Customers contributed some ideas and recipes, while he based others on intriguing tastes from his dining experiences.

The owner's favorite sauce is the Argentine Aioli. Tom Keith, self-proclaimed "taste-tester" as well as the restaurant's publicist/marketing consultant, is partial to garlic aioli and wasabi. Mr. Keith is responsible for suggesting what became another house specialty, country-fried bacon, and is quick to tout The Wiener's falafel burger, which they call their "meatless option."

TV cameras captured a customer downing the stand's Triple Undisputed three-pound burger, says Mr. Paschalis. But it is probably hot dogs (and their accoutrements) that are making his name.

He came naturally to the business. His dad, an Indiana steelworker, ran a hot dog truck on weekends "to make ends meet," he says; his uncle ran a grill in Winnetka for 29 years. Just after he decided to leave the corporate world and strike out on his own, Mr. Paschalis read the ad: "Hot Dog Stand For Sale."

Mr. Paschalis admits it is "easy to drive past and see just another hot dog stand." But he has an explanation for the growing success of The Wiener and Still Champion. "If you put quality in, people will come and tell their friends," he says.

Farmer's Best Market Meet 'n' Greet

Story and photo by Jordan Graham

(Left to right) Apostolos Vassilakis, produce manager; Konstantinos Vassilakis, deli manager; Daniel Merikas; George Merikas, owner/manager; Nick Merikas, owner/manager; Chris Merikas, owner/manager; Anjana Hansen, Ald. 9th Ward; Ann Rainey, Ald. 8th Ward; Anna Merikas.

More than 150 people gathered in a vacant building near the intersection of Oakton Street and Asbury Avenue for a meeting with the owners of the new "Farmer's Best Market." Ald. Ann Rainey, 8th Ward, and Ald. Anjana Hansen, 9th Ward, welcomed the community's residents, who were also treated to a sample selection of fresh produce that the market will soon offer.

Nick Merikas, a co-owner and manager of the grocery store, emphasized the wide variety of foods that will be available upon opening: fresh fruits and vegetables, a deli, a fish and meat counter, and specialty items, such as vegan and non-dairy products. He also noted that the owners would be open to customers' suggestions, and said they would stock their shelves accordingly.

Some residents expressed concern about several issues, including an increase in traffic due to cars and delivery trucks, the construction process, the proximity of the location to schools, and issues associated with the sale of alcohol. Mr. Merikas addressed all of these subjects and assured the residents that the sale of alcohol would be well-managed and would not adversely affect the character of the community.

Mr. Merikas and partners must still go through the process of obtaining a liquor license, pending approval by the City Council and the liquor commissioner.

Describing the store as a "family-oriented business," Mr. Merikas introduced his partners and employees, who are, indeed, also members of his family. He said he anticipates the store will open before Thanksgiving.

No Zoning Change on Simpson

At the July 14 City Council meeting, aldermen rejected a recommendation by the Plan Commission to allow a zoning map change for 1829-31 Simpson St. (formerly The Snackery) from R3, a multi-family residential district, to MU, a transitional manufacturing district, which would have allowed Flepspace, a woodworking shop, to continue to operate there.

Alderman Delores Holmes, in whose Fifth Ward the property lies, said several other persons had attempted to purchase the long-vacant property for commercial use and been unable to do, and that the current owner was operating his business there despite the zoning and despite having been cited by the City for the violation. Aldermen agreed that the Plan Commission could recommend a special use for such a business in a multi-family residential area but rejected the zoning change.

Aldermen also approved a rate increase for new water service connections; the charge will depend upon the size of the valve to be connected. They also accepted a recommendation of the Plan Commission to deny a zoning request for a proposed development at 1031 Sherman Ave. (at Greenleaf Street). The Plan Commission said the project did not comport with the context of the neighborhood.

Trader Joe's Is A-Comin' to Town

After eight years of looking for a place in Evanston, Trader Joe's will open a shop at 1890 Maple Ave., a representative of the real estate firm that handles Trader Joe's development told the City's Planning and Development Committee last week. Michael Deegan of IDS Real Estate, which represents Trader Joe's, said a "letter of intent was signed as of June 30 and we are very close to having a lease done."

The grocery store will be part of the proposed 14-story mixed-use development at 1890 Maple Ave., a project of Carroll Properties.

David Reifman of DLA Piper, attorneys for the project, appeared before the Planning and Development Committee on July 14 to request a 24-foot-wide curb cut along the Emerson Street side of the property "to allow for truck access for loading off University Place," he said. "None of the bulk of the project has changed - we've just introduced a curb-cut on Emerson."

Mr. Deegan said he thought Trader Joe's would be "very good for the City of Evanston and for the neighborhood. ... We're really looking forward to being a part of the City and being a good neighbor."

The Committee may vote at the July 28 meeting on an ordinance that amends the planned development ordinance for 1890 Maple Ave. to allow the curb cut.

Rendering courtesy of Fitzgerald Architects

Steve & Barry's Update

After weeks of speculation that Steve & Barry's would be filing bankruptcy, the company initiated cases under Chapter 11 of the U.S. Bankruptcy Code on July 9, putting in doubt whether the company will open a store in Evanston Plaza at Dempster Street and Dodge Avenue.

In a press release issued on July 9, Steve & Barry's said its existing stores across the nation "are open today and conducting business as usual." In response to the question, "A store is scheduled to open in my neighborhood; will it still open?", the press release states, "The Company is reviewing its store base as part of the Chapter 11 process - no decisions have been made."

Steve & Barry's did not respond to the RoundTable's inquiries for information about the status of the proposed store in Evanston Plaza.

Dennis Harden, a representative of Joseph Freed & Co., which owns Evanston Plaza, told the RoundTable on July 17, "We have no update. They [Steve & Barry's] haven't responded to our inquiries."

For additional background information see the July 9 issue of the RoundTable.

West Davis Street Summer Sidewalk Sale

On July 11 the shops of the 1100 block of Davis St will be hosting the West Davis Street Sidewalk Sale in conjunction with the Downtown Evanston Super Summer Sale on July 25-27. Vendors and musicians from all over the area will be participating in addition to the local businesses.

Hosting the event are Ethical Planet Healthy Living General Store, Tink-Tinks and Wild Tree Café.

Participating area vendors will be offering handmade jewelry, artwork and clothing, children's books and games, environmentally friendly lawncare, health and wellness coaching, farm animal rescue, intuitive painting, animal communication, green cleaning products, nutrition and skin care products, live music and more.
For more information, call 847-866-2088.