How many of us think, “I’m really in the mood for a thistle tonight?” Don’t be shy — raise your hand high and proud.
One of my favorite food memories involves my mother teaching me how to eat an artichoke, back when they were only in stores in springtime. She would serve them with drawn butter and a homemade version of Dijonnaise (it was the early 1970s). My mom did love a good artichoke. The flip side: Me, as an adult, serving them at a dinner party and then tossing the discarded leaves down the garbage disposal. This did not end well.
Artichokes are available pretty much year-round now, but I still think of them as a spring vegetable. They are gorgeous by any measure, these big green globes on a thick stem. The leaves and the meaty core of the artichoke are edible, although you’ll need to scrape your teeth on the inside of the outside leaves to get at the good stuff. As for the heart, once it’s cleaned of the fibrous, fuzzy choke (I recommend using a spoon to scoop it out), there’s a delectable nuttiness to it.
When buying fresh artichokes, opt for the ones that feel heavy for their size, much like you would with citrus. You want the leaves to be mostly closed, which indicates freshness. And in this case, size can matter, because the baby artichokes cook more quickly, and they tend to be quite tender.
They’re very adaptable, and can be enjoyed steamed, boiled, microwaved, baked, pickled and grilled. Artichokes are high in antioxidants and dietary fiber, can help to balance cholesterol, and aid in digestion. It was once believed that artichokes were an aphrodisiac, so women were of course banned from eating them, because patriarchy. But once again, they’re on the menu for everyone, and the hearts are also available canned, jarred and frozen. What are you waiting for?
Here are some recipe ideas that take advantage of these healthful spring veggies:
Steam them.
This is the go-to classic method for cooking fresh artichokes. Yes, you can boil them (too waterlogged, in my opinion) or microwave them (hard to control doneness), but this is the simplest and best way. You can trim off a few of the small, tough outside leaves, then cut the stem to desired length (I think about 2” is pretty) and peel the outside of the stem with a vegetable peeler. Cut the whole artichoke in half lengthwise from stem to tip, and put in a bowl of acidulated water (squeeze in the juice of a half lemon). In a large pot, put a steamer basket and a few inches of water. Bring to a boil, reduce to a simmer and carefully place the artichoke halves on top of the basket over the simmering water. Squeeze the other half of the lemon over the top and cover and steam the artichokes for about 30 minutes. Remove carefully with tongs, then using a spoon, scoop out the fuzzy choke. Now you’re good to go with whatever dipping mechanism you prefer – aioli, dijonnaise, soy vinaigrette, drawn butter, etc. Or if you want to gild the lily, toss them with a little olive oil and throw them on a grill for a few minutes. Got to live a little, right?
Shave them into a salad.
Using baby artichokes, clean 8 of them as described above and slice them very thinly from top to bottom (a good mandoline is handy here) and put them in lemon water to prevent oxidation. When ready to assemble salad, drain the artichoke slices and pat dry with paper towels. In a large salad bowl combine ¼ cup of olive oil and the juice of one lemon, plus salt and pepper to taste. Add in the artichokes and toss to coat. Shave fresh parmesan over top using a vegetable peeler (ration of artichoke to cheese is roughly 1:1) and mix again. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve immediately.
Make soup.
This recipe makes good use of frozen artichoke hearts and can be made year-round. Melt a few tablespoons of butter in a soup pot over medium heat, then add in a well-cleaned and chopped leek, a ½ cup of chopped celery, and a few thinly sliced garlic cloves (have a bunch of ramps, too? Clean and chop them, greens included, and toss them in). Season with salt and pepper and sauté until veggies are cooked through, about 5 minutes. Add in a quart of low-sodium chicken broth, one large yellow potato (peeled and chopped into 1/2″ chunks), a 9-oz. bag of frozen artichoke hearts, some lemon zest, juice of 1/2 lemon, and chopped fresh thyme to taste. Bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer and cook for 10 minutes or so until artichokes are heated through and potatoes are tender. Toss in half a bag of cleaned spinach, a few handfuls of arugula, and a ¼ cup of half and half. Once spinach has wilted, use a hand blender to purée soup in the pot (or else puree in batches in a blender, but with air cap off to release steam). Season to taste with salt and pepper and serve with a dollop of crème fraiche and some chopped chives if desired.
Make crostini.
This one is super easy and fast, and perfect for an appetizer. Cut baguette into ½” slices, brush with olive oil, and bake in 400F oven for ten minutes until nicely crunchy and golden. Set aside to cool. In small bowl, combine 16 ounces of ricotta (whole milk ricotta is more luscious), a few tablespoons of chopped chives, one minced garlic clove, and salt and pepper to taste. Separately, drain a jar of marinated artichoke hearts and reserve. Spread or pipe ricotta mixture onto crostini, then top each with a drained artichoke heart. Sprinkle with lemon zest, chopped parsley and freshly ground pepper and serve.
Try one of these tried-and-true recipes.
The internet is an infinite recipe resource, but how do you know which to trust? Not all recipes are created equal. Here are some I return to over and over that showcase spring artichokes the way they deserve.
The Food Network’s Skillet Chicken Parmesan with Artichokes
Michael White’s Grilled Fish with Artichoke Caponata
Andrew Zimmern’s Roman Fried Artichokes
Eating Well’s Caesar Salad with Crispy Artichokes